Natural Edge Bowl
Margaret started by giving a full introduction to turning natural edge bowls, and more, using lots of great examples of her work along with a few others.
Different grain orientations were explained.
Margaret explained about how to get a cross grained bowl balanced before mounting on the lathe. How to check the position of the blank before starting. Very gradually start to take the edges off using a bowl gouge. Work with the wood but also bear in mind that the bark may detach if worked the wrong way. Start shaping and gradually form the desired shape. Form a foot and true the base up to form a spigot. Once the spigot has been formed it may be necessary to reshape the foot, to give an aesthetically pleasing shape. Work with the grain using a shear cut but beware that the bark may detach. Outside complete. Sand if you like but the paper will clog.
Mount the part turned blank in the chuck jaws, remove the live centre to avoid injury. Check all is clear and start from the centre the same way you would for a normal bowl. Concentrate on the outer edge and turn down the the thickness wanted about 6-3mm is ideal for a wet turned bowl, this will prevent splitting. Leave the timber in the middle for a bit of stability. Once you are far enough down the sides you can remove the centre timber. Stop the lathe on frequent occasions to check the thickness as you go. Try to maintain an even wall thickness to avoid splitting whilst drying out. Reverse the bowl use a bit of padding over the chuck jaws and with the tailstock in place turn the foot down. Check the bottom is about the same thickness as the sides. Gradually dry the bowl out, Margaret puts the bowls in damp shavings created whilst turning the bowl, in a plastic bag to slowly dry. Don’t just forget about the bowl as it may go mouldy.
Mount a square section of close grained wood between centres. Turn down to round. Part a small slot to each end to give the desired diameter. Turn down to an even cylinder to meet up with the grooves already cut. Use the wing of the roughing gouge to give a smooth finish for the final cut. Mark a length of 35mm. Turn the speed right down to drill the hole. Keep hold of the drill chuck and go gently.
Mark out the bead details Use the skew on edge to give a definite V to set out the beads. Using a Simon Hope spindle gouge Margaret carefully cuts the beads. Cut the beads then move on to the cove. Remember that there is only 5mm of wall thickness. Make sure that all the beads and coves are symmetrical, take your time and just go carefully. Sand up carefully try not to louse the crisp edges. Part off and catch the ring.
Margaret made a jig to hold the ring. The jig is loose and needs a cone into the slots to cuts in the jig to spread it and tighten the ring. Tidy up the parted off end.
Project 3 a thin coater.
Screw the square of wood to a flat board on a faceplate. 35mm spigot to hold in chuck. Form a slot with the parting tool. Mark the outer edge to avoid the screws. Dish out the middle and form some shallow beads. But not where the chuck will be. Remove the square corners on the bandsaw. Turn to round. Measure the slate coaster and turn down to give a pleasant margin around the edge. Mark for the recess and use parting tool to get the size. Switch to a gouge to remove the centre section. Place a bit of tape on the tile to aid pulling it out when sizing. Mark for the recess and use parting tool to form a rebate. Very small as there is no thickness. Form a bit of shape to the outer edge. Check for fit again, stick using silicone sealant. Reverse and finish the shallow beads. Be gentle. Sand and polish. Then when all polished stick the slate centre inplace.